In western Gambia, the rhythm of drums reverberates, a steady heartbeat calling people to gather. As the anticipation rises, a figure leaps into action - a spirit of tradition, draped in flowing palm leaves, twirling with an energy that seems otherworldly. This is Kumpo, one of the most enigmatic figures in Jola mythology.

Guardians of Culture
The Jola people of Senegal and The Gambia have long preserved their stories through movement, ritual, and masked figures that transcend mere performance. Among them, the ghostly Kumpo, Samay, and Niasse stand as powerful symbols of cultural continuity, reminding each generation of their responsibilities, values, and history.
Kumpo: A spirit of order and guidance, entirely covered in palm fronds, moving in hypnotic circles as if carried by the wind. He speaks in a secret language, understood only by those entrusted to interpret his wisdom. His haunting call is a defining characteristic of his presence, a sound that resonates through the village, summoning the community together. As he calls, the villagers sing their response.
It is forbidden to touch Kumpo and, if you get too close, he defends himself with his stick by smashing the ground and pointing, making sharp, hazardous gestures. Everyone is wary around him, especially the children who run away if he makes a move towards them.
Samay: The master of ceremonies, wielding a long staff and wearing horns upon his head, ensures that tradition is upheld and the community remains engaged. He mandates strict order in the community and is believed to know everything that happens in the village.
Niasse: Also known as Agomala or Esamai, Niasse is the most human-like of the three with two arms and short sticks, his dance connects past and present through movement and presence. He walks with an ease and a swagger, reminiscent of the Sapeurs of DRC.
The Mysterious One: Along with the three mythological figures above was another either called Dari, Darrie or Kunkunteh…or maybe not. Apparently, he is a grandfather figure for the village, but scary with it, although he looked mournful to me. He will whip the children if they disrespect him. They were terrified of him; he only had to look in their direction for them to take to their heels.
The Rhythm of Tradition
The Kumpo masquerades are not rare occurrences; they are woven into the fabric of Jola cultural life. These performances take place multiple times throughout the year, often coinciding with Journées culturelles - village folk festivals dedicated to strengthening community ties. More than just a spectacle, the Kumpo's dance serves as a form of social regulation, reinforcing collective values and ensuring traditions endure. Each performance is a reminder of the living history carried forward by these masked figures.
The Role of Mythology in Daily Life
In The Gambia, mythology is not just a collection of ancient stories - it is a living, breathing force that shapes daily life, social norms, and cultural identity. Traditional myths and legends serve as guides, instilling values such as bravery, respect for elders, and communal unity. These narratives influence everything from religious practices to ethical beliefs, often reinforcing societal expectations through oral storytelling and ritual ceremonies.
These figures are more than symbolic; they play an active role in everyday life in maintaining harmony and reminding the community of its ancestral wisdom. Mythology also serves as a means of spiritual guidance, with tales of creation, cosmic order, and supernatural beings influencing religious practices among groups like the Serer. Despite modern influences, these traditions continue to thrive, passed down through generations in song, dance, and performance.
Kumpo, Samay, Niasse and Dari are so much part of everyday life they even have their own bus…
I couldn’t find out much about these mythological figures, and the information I received in The Gambia was a bit muddled. If you have stories or insights about any or all of the figures, I’d love to hear from you in the comments!
Absolutely fascinating Lynn! The palm fronds are indeed hypnotic as they twirl nd dance in the dust, what a huge privelidge to have witnessed and timed such a mythical ceremonial belief!
Beautiful!
What an amazing trip you had to the Gambia Lynn, wonderful photographs and the film brings it all to life - I love to read about myths and traditions so this was right up my street!